Words by: Adam Wright
Riders: Adam & Bevan
Location: Fowlers Pass, St James, Hanmer region, South Island, NZ
Gear from some of our favourite brands: Evoc, Old Man Mountian, Maxxis, Race Face, TRP, iXS, BBB Cycling, DT Swiss, Ontrack, Park Tool, KMC Chains, Ride Concepts.

It all started with loading the bikes onto the car and heading a few hours north of Christchurch. The last stretch of road was bumpier than expected, resulting in the first tyre change of the trip—and it wasn’t the bike. After a quick wheel swap on the car, we loaded our bikes with gear. I opted for a minimalist setup using an EVOC handlebar and seat bag for camping essentials, with the rest in a backpack. Bevan on the other hand, turned his bike into a mule with Old Man Mountain racks and bags. With everything packed, we set off on the bikes, starting with a short push up a rough section of track before reaching established singletrack that wound its way up the pass. Along the way, we met a man on horseback accompanied by five dogs who was also heading into the backcountry.  

From atop Fowlers Pass, we dropped elevation quickly down the northern face on loose, exposed track, choosing to leave a couple of corners unridden rather than risk a crash with the addition of extra gear onboard, especially knowing we were a long way from a medical centre. Once down in the valley we undulated through beech forest and grassland, following Smyths Stream and crossing it multiple times before navigating through a smelly bog. Eventually, the valley opened up to reveal snow-capped mountains and our first destination: Stanley Vale Hut, an historic DOC hut dating back to the 1860s.

After a quick look inside at its collection of old books, we continued down the Stanley River valley for a short pedal before taking a seat in the grass near the river for lunch—filled rolls from Hanmer Bakery and a stash of sweets. Refuelled, we pushed on down the Stanley River Track, which mostly followed grassy animal trails marked by poles. It was a pleasant pedal downstream across easy terraces, hopping from side to side of the river. A short bush bash was required where the trail had been washed out by winter rains.

Soon, we reached Stanley Gates, where the river squeezes through a small gorge. A bypass route took us up through beech forest onto a bluffy face before descending on scree-like track back to the river. Next came the slog, more walking than biking up near Racecourse Stream, navigating water runoff before reaching the dry expanse of The Racecourse—a vast tussock flat locked between mountain ranges. Crossing it felt endless, pedalling over clumpy grass until we finally reached scrubby hills on the far side and looked back across the plain we had overcome.From there, we descended toward Charlies Saddle navigating a few sketchy spots while enjoying not having to do too much pedalling.

At the saddle, we joined the St James Cycle Trail and dropped into the Edwards River valley, passing Scotties Hut before striking camp near Cow Stream by the natural hot pools. After setting up, we soaked in the pools then enjoyed a feed and cheered a beer. When rain rolled in, we were grateful to join a friendly group of fellow hot pool seekers under their tent fly shelter for some banter.  

Day Two:

The Ride Out Morning brought damp gear and wet shoes from the river crossings the day before, but after waiting for the sun to partially dry things, we packed up and hit the trail again. We followed the Edwards River for several km’s along the St James Cycle Trail before climbing the short sharp Peters Pass. Once at the top we took a quick breather and onboarded some food before descending the 4WD track out to Top House Road. From there, it was a straightforward pedal along the false flat into a headwind back to where it all began—Fowlers Pass hut and carpark. A cautious drive back to Hanmer (with no spare wheel onboard) ended with well-earned pies, sausage rolls, and some much-needed rehydration.  

Final Thoughts:

This trip was a reminder of why backcountry riding is so addictive: the mix of challenge, scenery, and unexpected encounters. From historic huts to tussock plains and natural hot pools, the mountains tend to deliver adventure in spades.